The Wrinkle-Eliminating Ingredient: Retinol
What It Does: We know that retinol can stimulate collagen production and fade hyperpigmentation. In fact, there’s been more than a quarter century of research showing that this standby is an all-star when it comes to antiaging. “It helps skin cells turn over more quickly, keeping pores clear and preventing the dry, dull look of aged skin,” says Dr. Harold Lancer, a dermatologist in Beverly Hills. Within the first week of treatment, changes in the epidermis will make your skin feel softer and smoother, says Dr. Dana Sachs, an associate professor of dermatology at the University of Michigan. “Brown spots will start to fade at 4-6 weeks, and wrinkles will start to fade at weeks 8-12,” thanks to new collagen in the skin.
Where You Can Find It: The new dr. brandt® glow by dr. brandt® ruby crystal retinol hydracrème is loaded with this wrinkle-minimizing ingredient. It also contains tiny ruby crystals that help skin reflect light, to give it a more youthful glow. Paula’s Choice RESIST Intensive Wrinkle-Repair Retinol Serum fights signs of aging—and sun damage in particular—with a patented blend of retinol and antioxidants.
The Wrinkle-Eliminating Ingredient: Vitamin C
What It Does: Vitamin C is the singer-songwriter-guitarist of the anti-aging world—it does a little bit of everything, boosting collagen, lightening discoloration, and evening skin tone, according to Lancer. Some studies have shown it can also make skin appear softer and smoother. As an antioxidant, vitamin C can reverse damage from free radicals caused by UV rays, but its UV-protection powers don’t stop there: Research has suggested that it makes sunscreen last longer and work better, so it can help prevent further sun damage—and the wrinkles that come with it.
Where You Can Find It: In ORIGINS Plantscription™ Anti-Aging Serum, vitamin C is combined with botanicals like anogeissus bark and rosemary extracts, which help repair skin structure and minimize wrinkles. Caudalie Polyphenol C15 Anti-Wrinkle Defense Serum has a whopping 15 percent concentration of vitamin C—plus a healthy dose of grape polyphenols, antioxidant-rich compounds that neutralize wrinkle-causing free radicals. The Supergoop! Antioxidant-Infused Sunscreen Mist with Vitamin C is a water-resistant formula that protects skin with SPF 30—plus it has a delicious citrusy scent.
The Wrinkle-Eliminating Ingredient: Alpha Hydroxy Acids
What It Does: Researchers have pinpointed how AHAs work down to the molecular level. Most importantly from an anti-aging perspective, they operate as powerful exfoliators, breaking the bond between the surface layer of dead skin cells and the fresh skin beneath. “Dead skin builds up and makes our spots look darker, our wrinkles look deeper, and our skin not reflect light,” explains Dr. Jeannette Graf, Assistant Clinical Professor of Dermatology at Mount Sinai Medical Center in New York. Some products will say AHA on the label, but you can also look for lactic acid or glycolic acid, the most frequently used forms of AHAs, Dr. Lancer says. For an over-the-counter treatment, look for an AHA concentration of 10 percent, Dr. Graf recommends. For a more heavy duty treatment, head to the dermatologist for an in-office chemical peel.
Where You Can Find It: The 10 percent concentration of glycolic acid in DDF Glycolic Toning Complex give it serious exfoliating power, while skin-soothing ingredients like witch hazel and aloe prevent drying and irritation. For an at-home version of a peel, swipe on one of the glycolic resurfacing pads with bliss' that's incredi-'peel'.